“Olinda Negra” makes a revolution in Pernambuco tourism by valuing black historiography

Credit: Disclosure

By: Eduarda Nunes – Lupa do Bem / Favela em Pauta

It is on the slopes of Olinda, a city considered Historical and Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco, that the “Olinda Negra” (Black Olinda) initiative has reinvented the concept of tourism in Pernambuco. The project, which for a year and a half has been carrying out Afro-centered itineraries in one of the best-known architectural complexes in the world, is designed – and executed – by four young black men: Alexsandro Batista, Camila Góes, Mirela Cavalcanti and Rilson Bernardo de Sena. All connected, in one way or another, with the Associação Recreativa Carnavalesca Afoxé Alafin Oyó.

To the sound of sung songs and agogôs, in the Historic Center, those interested travel about 3 km along the slopes, uncovering stories and meeting personalities forgotten by time. Or rather, made invisible by whitened historical perspectives.

In this sense, local artists are guests of honor during the tour, which lasts an average of three hours. For Rilson, nutritionist, co-founder and conductor of the walk, it is an effort to “connect the past to the present” of the city.

The tour also seeks to deconstruct the idea that Olinda would be composed exclusively of Catholic churches, by revealing important paths for Afro religiosity and the millenary resistance of non-white populations for freedom and rights.

An itinerary full of meanings in historic Olinda

“The construction of the script comes from the intertwining of the history of Olinda with the history of Afoxé Alafin Oyó, even covering spaces where there are marks of racial prejudice faced by the group”, explains pedagogue Mirela, co-founder of the project and one of the conductors. of the ride.

On the slopes of Mercado da Ribeira, for example, the old trade of enslaved people and the re-signification of space based on the occupation of contemporary black artists are discussed.

In addition, addresses where distinguished black personalities live or have lived are mandatory stops. The address of musician Benedito da Macuca, on the well-known Rua do Amparo, is one of those moments, considered magical, promoted by the walk. With luck, the participants manage to catch Seu Benedito, famous for the accordion frevo, in front of the residence.

The staircase where Mário Raposo, the well-known Lord of Olinda, passed, is also another exciting point. The elegant carnivalesque, famous for parading wearing a tailcoat on Carnival Sunday, was immortalized in the figure of the first giant black puppet of the party.

Black Money Movement

On social networks, the accounts of those who participate in the Olinda Negra (Black Olinda) walk help to understand the relevance of the project, which has connected stories to ancestry and expanded the state’s tourist horizon, in addition to promoting the anti-racist debate. Despite this, the organizers of the initiative report the difficulties in consolidating a network of black professionals that is able to welcome the project’s public.

“At each walk, seeing people’s reactions, the look of ignorance transformed into emotion, has been very powerful”, says one of the co-founders and conductor of the walk, the dancer and teacher Alexsandro.

Even so, there is a consensus among the team on the problem faced due to the absence of black traders to foment the “Black Money” movement in Olinda. In theory, the ideal would be to circulate financial resources in the hands of black businessmen and entrepreneurs.

The high value of rents in the Historic Center of Olinda, location where there is the largest flow of tourists in the city, helps to understand why properties are almost exclusively in the hands of upper-middle-class white people.

Even so, the effort to turn those who produce culture into protagonists is already yielding results. Casa Axé de Fala, for example, a commercial establishment that produces and resells the traditional axé drink, of Afro-indigenous origin, became an obligatory stop during the walk. “And so the network is strengthened”, adds Mirela.

Walk tour by appointment

The Afrotourism itinerary promoted by Olinda Negra (Black Olinda) takes place two or three times a month, depending on the availability of drivers. With tickets ranging from R$ 40.00 for people from Pernambuco to R$ 60.00 for foreigners. The amount can be paid by PIX or by credit card. In the case of children up to 12 years old, accompanied by their parents or guardians, participation is free. To participate and know the dates of the tours, just access the profile on Instagram @olindanegra.

Afro-tourist exchange and black resistance of Afoxé Alafin Oyó in PE

Olinda Negra (Black Olinda) has the support of the afrotourism platform Guia Negro, conceived and executed by Guilherme Soares Dias, journalist and writer. The conversations that started the project began during the Covid-19 pandemic, on the internet, and transformed into the face-to-face regimen when Brazilians received doses of the vaccine. To follow the projects of Guia Negro, look for @guianegro on social media.

Afoxé Alafin Oyó, the cornerstone of the initiative, has been parading through the streets of Olinda with the colors red and white for 36 years. The sound involves, along with the lyrics that address the fights for rights, religiosity and hope of the black people, in addition to an emotional ballet. The entity is considered one of the main contributions of the black movement in Pernambuco and even today carries out activities of social interest and incentive to culture. To meet and follow Afoxé, follow @alafineusou.